Making the most of Marshland Plants

No water garden is quite complete without some type of marsh land plantings around it. Now, these work best for in ground water gardens, but you may be able to get them to grow and flourish around smaller container based water gardens too. Essentially, all you need to do is be sure the water from your water garden seeps out into the surrounding area slowly, or have additional containers around your water garden which simply hold soggy soil.

In nature, marshland plants - also known as marginal water plants - grow in the soggy soil next to lakes and ponds. And with a bit of planning and attention, you can recreate this natural beauty for your own water gardens and ponds too.

Many large man made ponds which are designed for putting into the ground have various levels built into them. The shallow levels are at the outer edges of the pond, and these are often referred to as shelves. These are where the marshland plants tend to be grown. If you create - or hire someone to create - a completely natural pond of course, then you can plan for these soggy growth areas to occur naturally.

Many backyard pond lovers use the damp soil conditions around their pond to create lush, tropical style gardens. You can of course, design any marshland style you’d like though, as long as you select plants which will thrive in the wet environment around your pond.

Not only do these marshland areas provide you with more greenery, shade, and beauty, they also provide local wildlife additional refuge too. Over time you may find you’ve attracted a number of birds, reptiles, butterflies and other creatures to your wet land areas and pond.

Cardinal flowers are popular marginal water plants, and these grow from two to four feet high. They have toothed leaves and produce tubular red flowers, with bloom times usually in July.

A Bengal Tiger Canna is another beautiful plant for putting at the edge of your water garden. This has pretty orange flower blooms, and lush green leaves with yellow stripes.

Calla lilies are loved by most gardeners, for both their pure white flowers and their heady scent. And these grow quite well at the edge of a water garden too.

There are of course hundreds of other types of plants you can choose for the wet areas around your garden pond, so be sure to research different ones, and ask at your local nursery too. If you have a water garden specialty store in your area, then go there first, because they’re usually run by experts who can offer many more suggestions, tips, and advice in creating your own water garden or pond.

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Many different types of Hosta Plants

Hosta plants are most well known for their ability to grow in shady areas, and their amazing variety of colors and textures. Not everyone knows this, but many types of hosta plants actually produce flowers too, and these flowers can be quite beautiful in and of themselves.

Flowering hosta plants usually need a little more sunlight than non flowering ones though, and this is particularly true for hostas which produce flowers that have a nice scent to them. How much sunlight these plants need will depend on the strength of sun in your own garden zone though, and there may be a bit of trial and error involved before you discover just the right location for them.

In most cases, it’s safe to plant flowering hostas in a location which receives morning sunlight, and shade in the afternoon. The morning sun is not as strong as the afternoon sun is, and the light doesn’t last as long either.

For the most part though, hosta plants are generally grown for their gorgeous colorful foilage instead of their flowers. And a basic rule of thumb is: The darker the foilage, the more shade the plant can handle. Sometimes however, the best planting location will depend more on the color of the hosta’s foilage than the darkness of that color.

Hosta plants which have golden colored leaves for instance, tend to do better with a bit more sun. The sun actually helps bring out the color of the foilage in all it’s glory. A hosta plant which has blue colored leaves though, will do much better in shady areas. It can live in mostly shaded locations, or fully shaded locations.

Many hosta plants actually have variagated foilage though, and a general rule of thumb is that they should be grown in partial to full shade. You’ll find some have lighter colors in the center of their leaves, while others have the lightest colors at the outer edges.

If you live in a climate which has a fairly hot or strong sunlight, then partial shade might still be a bit too much sun for many types of hosta plants. What you’ll want to look for is a location that has heavily filtered sunlight, or light shade all day long.

Hostas are fairly easy to care for too, because their growth habits tend to choke out weeds. They’re also quite useful as lawn or garden border plants, and they can even be used as all purpose ground covers in some areas too. Hosta plants do need plenty of water and good drainage though, and this can make growing them in hot climates a bit difficult.

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Gardening Plants

When it comes to gardening plants, there are too many to name. Gardening plants can refer to flowers, shrubs, herbs, vegetables, fruits, and many more. There are also gardening plants that are in season at different times of the year, some in fall and winter, others in spring and summer. Whatever type of gardening you decide is your forte; there are plenty of gardening plants available to suit your preferences.

If you want gardening plants that you can actually use instead of just look at, vegetables, herbs, and fruits are all very satisfying. Edible plants add an excitement to gardening because of the produce available at harvest time. The main vegetables grown in smaller, home gardens as well as larger ones include corn, peas, cucumbers, potatoes, squash, peppers, onions, carrots, spinach, lettuce, and beets. Popular fruits are pears, plums, tomatoes, blueberries, apricots, cherries, and strawberries. Herbs are used for their wonderful fragrances, to spice up a salad, and in cooking. Herbs that are often home grown include thyme, sage, dill, mint, lavender, and chives.

It is fairly easy to have a colorful garden in the spring and summer months, but it is a whole different ball-game during the cold, winter months. Even though it is difficult, with planning and a little more care you can have a colorful garden year round. One gardening plant that thrives in the fall and winter months is the Rudbeckia, a beautiful yellow perennial. Others include the Christmas rose, the Japanese Anemone, and Cosmos.

When you think of flowers you automatically think of a spring garden full of many different, beautiful colors. Spring and summer gardening plants are some of the prettiest things on earth and give inspiration to all who grow them. Some of the most grown spring plants are tulips, daffodils, and violets. Favorites of the warmer months of summer are lilies, dahlias, and roses.

When gardening, many people will opt for decorative grasses or shrubs. Monkey grass is an all time favorite, especially for a sidewalk. These will gardening plants can be for looks, can act as a border or fence, and can be used for privacy. Shrubs are easy to take care of and add a defining look to any yard or garden.

There are so many different kinds of gardening plants available. Many gardening plants actually have a purpose and can be used, whereas many of them are just for looks. The kind of gardening plant you choose to have in your garden is completely up to you, but remember, no matter what kind it is, it will require some maintenance and without proper care you will end up with a garden full of just dirt.

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If you want enchanting flowering plants for shade, you cannot beat growing fuchsias. Whether in individual pots, window boxes, or hanging baskets, lady’s ear drops, as fuchsias an sometimes called, are gorgeous plants noted for their grace and splendor. There are hundreds of varieties, single and double, in rose, purple, and white shades, and in both upright and hanging types. Fuchsias are particularly popular in California, where the summers are cool and the winters sufficiently moderate; but they make handsome container plants in other climates too.

Except for the hanging types, fuchsias are by nature upright shrubby growers, fine as specimen plants for containers. Under proper conditions, some attain considerable size. The dark purple-and-red Reiter’s Giant grows to five feet or more, and the single red Mephisto is even taller. Alice Hoffman, a semi-double white and pink, is a dwarf, to two feet, as is the three-foot Camellia, a double white and red.

Tree Types
Tree, or standard, fuchsias are always greatly admired. These are simply the usual fuchsias trained to tree form. With patience, you can develop your own, starting with a four- to five-inch cutting kept tied to a strong four- to five-foot stake. At the desired height of two, three, or four feet, the single stalk can be pinched back and allowed to branch. In the meantime, do not remove all leaves from the stem, because they are needed to manufacture food.

Good varieties to train to tree form include the purple-and-red Muriel, the red-and-white Storm King, the double lavender-and-red Gypsy Queen, and the all-white Flying Cloud. Tree fuchsias lend themselves to the simplicity of modern architecture; the large specimens are always attractive on the terraces and patios of contemporary ranch houses. On the other hand, they are also handsome with houses and gardens of traditional design.

For Hanging Baskets
Many gardeners believe that the best way to appreciate fuchsias is in hanging baskets, because their exquisite blooms are seen at or above eye level. They are most decorative for patios, entrances, lath houses, and on walls and tree trunks. They can be suspended in redwood slat boxes and in glazed or plastic containers. In moss-lined wire baskets, they require more water because the roots dry out more quickly.

For basket planting, you will like the double magenta-and-carmine Anna, the single red-and-white Claret Cup, and also the semi-double purple-and-red Muriel, mentioned for tree-training. Among the most brilliant varieties are the double, bright red Marinka; the nearly orange Aurora Superba; the carmine-rose and orange-red San Francisco; and the rose-purple-and-pink Amapola. It is more effective to grow but one variety in a container.

Espaliers and Pyramids
In planters or raised beds of containers, fuchsias can be trained into interesting espalier forms against a wall or fence where the space may be too narrow for other plants. Though not difficult, the espalier plant requires time and patience. First make a trellis of wood or wire. Five to seven tiers are customary. Then train your plant as it grows, pinching growth frequently to induce branching and to avoid bare stems. Varieties to espalier include the red-and-scarlet Falling Stars, the blue-and-rose Coquette, and the red-and-white Dr. John Gallwey.

Fuchsias can also be trained into pyramids in the manner of formal English ivy plants. Since the young fuchsia shoots tend to break easily, it takes patience and a steady hand to tie them properly to the form. Fully grown plants are delightful in a formal setting, and a pair for an entranceway are distinctive indeed.

Fuchsias are tender woody plants that do best under cool, humid conditions. They are especially successful in coastal areas, where fog and humidity prevail, though some varieties, as the single all-red Mephisto and the red-and-white Mme. Cornelissen, will thrive in hot, dry inland regions. They are great favorites because they bloom in shade, not the heavy shade of low-branching trees, but high, open shade and that found on the north side of a building. In dense shade, plants get leggy and flower sparingly. In hot, direct sunshine, however, they dry out and the leaves burn. In hot climates, lath houses provide ideal conditions. Windy locations should be avoided because of the delicate flowers and brittle branches.

When growing fuchsias, moisture is essential. Plants show dryness by wilting. In containers, they usually need water every day and sometimes more often, particularly in the summer. Good drainage is important. In the bottom of the container provide sufficient rough material such as broken flower pots, pebbles, or cinders to insure free passage of water.

Do not allow pots to stand in water, and in hot weather sprinkle the foliage to remove dust and increase humidity. Fuchsias require an acidic soil. The mixture should be rich in organic matter. A good combination consists of one part good garden loam, one part leaf mold or peat moss, and either one part old manure or a small amount in dehydrated form.

Containers should be large enough to allow for full development of plants during the summer growing season. A small plant needs a six-inch pot; if two or three are grown together, use a ten- or twelve-inch pot. Starting with young plants is preferable, although large specimens are satisfactory if they are healthy and vigorous.

When fuchsias are wintered in containers and are not treated as annuals, you can enrich the growing medium the first year by scooping a few inches of soil from the top and replacing it with a fresh mixture. The next year, take plants out of containers in early spring, cut back the tops and some of the roots and repot in fresh soil in the same container. Drastically cutting back branches in the spring, before growth commences, will make plants branch well.

Increasing Your Supply
When you want to increase your collection, take three-inch cuttings from the tender spring growth, dip the ends in a hormone powder and insert the lower inch of each stem in a mixture of half leaf mold and half sand. Protect the cuttings from sun and either spray them lightly from time to time or cover with polyethylene plastic to prevent their drying out. When roots have formed, transfer the plants to small pots in a mixture of light loam and leaf mold. Cuttings can also be taken in late summer or early fall for small plants that are easier to winter.

Fuchsias require regular feeding through the growing season. Give liquid fertilizer once a month, following directions on the package. Fish emulsion, applied monthly, will give especially good results.

During the winter, store plants at 45 to 50 degrees to keep them dormant. Water sparingly, just enough to prevent wood from shrivelling. Outdoors, hardy fuchsias will survive to 25 degrees, but where hardiness is questionable, it is safer to winter plants in a greenhouse, cool room, shed, or in a cold frame. During this period, cover the roots with a layer of peat moss.

Insects likely to attack fuchsias include aphids, red spiders, white flies, thrips, mealy bugs, and leaf hoppers. Use a safe insecticide from your local gardening supplier, and apply regularly, especially before an infestation is heavy, will keep these enemies under control.