Looking For Information About Perennials?

Perennial plants grow on, year after year, as compared to annuals, which bloom and die in a single season, and biennials, which complete their life cycle in two seasons. Woody plants are perennial; but when gardeners say “perennial” in reference to flowering plants, usually those that die to the ground each year, that brighten our beds and borders from spring until fall.

A perennial plant that freezes back each fall is called a herbaceous perennial. Examples are garden peonies, balloon-flowers and Japanese anemones. Not all herbaceous perennials stay green until frost; some die back soon after flowering, as Oriental poppies and Virginia bluebells. Other nonwoody perennials may be evergreen, at least in certain climates; the hellebores, Shasta daisies, certain day-lilies and statice often maintain at least a rosette of green foliage through most of the winter.

Begonias, pelargoniums (garden geraniums), shrimp plant and several other “annual” bedding plants are quite perennial, perhaps even semi-woody, in their tropical, native habitats. Snapdragons and petunias frequently go on for two or more years in the Pacific Northwest.

We have to think of perennial plants in two ways: how they behave in our gardens and how they behave in the place where they grow natively. Perennials are the backbone of the garden. In a rock garden, almost every plant is a perennial. Most of the flowers in the wild garden are perennial. Our lilies, daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, crocuses and similar dependable bulbs, corms and tubers, are, of course, perennials. So are the more tender sorts, as dahlias, gladiolus, acidanthera, cannas and crocosmia; obviously, these go on year after year. But they cannot stand frost. It is hard to think of a home garden without perennial flowers. Perennials mean home gardening.

A careful selection of perennials provides flowers month after month. Very early in the spring the low-growing perennials begin to bloom. Hellebores often bloom in the snow; in the rock garden arabis species, the earliest dianthuses, some primroses and candytufts come out in March or early April. At the same time, marsh-marigold and skunk-cabbage blossom in the bog garden and a few miniature irises bloom in the border. In most climates the greatest showing of perennials comes through May, June and July. Autumn is climaxed by displays of chrysanthemums, Michaelmas daisies, the artemisias and Japanese anemones.

When working up a landscape plan, contrive various habitats. The perennial border gets full sun and requires a well-drained site. Two or three closely planted shade trees, closed in toward the east, south and west by low-growing, trees such as dogwood, redbud or black-haw, provide a site for the woodland and woods wild-flower garden.

If you are lucky enough to have a low place where the ground is soggy throughout the year, you may make a bog garden, with or without a pond for aquatic perennials. A rock garden is a wonderful thing provided you have the time to maintain it; quite a few rock-garden perennials thrive in a properly laid-up dry wall and the maintenance is very light. By all means, contrive growing sites for perennials.

Perennial plants have strong root systems. Going on, year after year, the roots of perennials grow outward toward moisture and nutrients. Some perennial plants develop at the ground line a mass of stem-root tissue, more or less well defined, called a crown. Delphinium crowns, for example, are somewhat woody, producing thick, very tender shoots above and rather weak but longish roots below. Summer phlox and hardy aster crowns become extremely woody with age; so woody, in fact, that movement of water and minerals from roots to shoots is retarded, and bloom becomes poor. The crowns of primulas and forget-me-nots remain soft.

Other perennials do not have well-organized crowns, but thickened, fairly woody main roots. Garden peonies, old-fashioned bleeding-heart and false indigo roots are intertwined and tangled, thick, becoming woody with age; these produce strong buds (eyes) near the soil surface that grow into flowering shoots. Smaller, fibrous roots extend outward from the thickened roots, and these absorb water and nutrients.

Some perennials produce more or less thickened, fleshy stems that creep horizontally just at the ground line. Iris rhizomes are typical. When a creeping rootstock is soft and fleshy, it is subject to decay. Plants with fleshy rhizomes need very well-drained soil. Rootstocks and rhizomes of aquatic plants usually are tough, sometimes woody. Cat-tails, sweet flag, water-willow, pickerelweed and the aquatic irises all have these ropy or woody creeping stems, with a mass of fibrous roots beneath.

Border perennial stems usually rise straight up from the crown or from the roots. Sturdy, well-spaced stems produce masses of large-sized, long-lasting flowers. On older clumps, when the leafy shoots are half-developed, clip out (at the base) all weak stems; it usually pays to remove half of the remaining stems on perennial clumps older than three years. For strong bloom and healthy plants lift and divide border perennials every fourth or fifth year. Some perennials resent disturbance, however; peonies, hostas, the gasplant and bleeding-heart make little or no bloom for two or three years after being lifted. Woodland and aquatic perennial stems usually are not thinned.

Perennials bloom in many ways; delphiniums, lupines and holly-hocks produce flowers on a strong vertical stem. While most of the perennials with flowers in spikes bloom from the bottom upward, a few, notably the Liatris species, bloom from the top downward. Other perennials bloom with flowers in close-set panicles or clusters, as summer phlox; still others bear flowers in looser clusters, as coral-bells, or in very open sprays, as columbine. A few perennials bloom on unbranched stems, or with branching limited to second-crop flowers that originate low on the stem of the primary flower, as Shasta daisy. Remove flower heads of perennials as quickly as blooms fade, to prevent seed formation, which saps the strength of the plant.

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To have a garden of incredible beauty, you have to start with a good design. The choice of plants, placement and care of them depends on how well the space is planned. Plant and design a flower garden that will deliver the results you’ve always dreamed of. It will be well worth the effort.

The most important factors are your hardiness zone and the sunlight conditions. It’s possible to use perennials that are outside of your zone, but they should be considered annuals and won’t last more than one season. Whether you have dug the garden out yet or not, make a note of where the sun shines in the yard, especially which areas get full sun and which are shady all day long.

Before you decide which flowers to put where, consider the type of garden you enjoy. Is it whimsical English country gardens or ordered Japanese types? Will you want all of the plants to be spaced well or can they grow into each other with abandon? How about a purpose? Would you like to include herbs for smell and culinary use? Or are you hoping to attract birds, butterflies and other wildlife? Decide what the overall goal and feel is that you are looking to achieve.

Plant size makes a big difference when learning how to design a flower garden. When you’re starting a bed from scratch, you may be tempted to fill every spot in an effort to have maximum impact in the first season. This will backfire and cause you much more work in the end. Space out your perennials following the instructions on the plant tags and fill in the gaps with annuals. You’ll have color and beauty for the first year and leave your perennials plenty of room to grow into their spot next season.

Normally you plant taller types of flowers in the middle of floating beds and against the back of border gardens. Shorter, smaller species fill up the area to the edge of the beds. Why not shake that rule up a little as you open the season? Try planting spring bloomers like bulbs or violets near the middle or at the back. They will be beautiful as the other plants just wake up and then the dying foliage will be covered later on. Experiment and see what works for your space.

Most gardeners aim for a three season show, with something blooming from April to October and even into November if possible. Choose your plantings with bloom time in mind and group flowers that will follow each other together. Spring bulbs like tulips and daffodils are covered well by daisies, perennial geraniums and other summer bloomers. Then aim for those late fall bulbs or colder weather bloomers, such as the obedient plant or English asters.

Butterflies are attracted to bright, open face blooms like daisies and Echinacea. Hummingbirds go for the elongated, trumpet-shaped blossoms, especially in bright red colors. Scatter these flowers throughout your garden in the proper spots to bring these fanciful visitors to your home.

To plant the flower bed you’ve always wanted, be sure you take the time to properly design a flower garden. You won’t be disappointed with the results.

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In Northern United States and Canada

There is still time to plant evergreens. As long as you do this before the new growth is excessively far advanced, and as long as they have a good root ball and are mulched and well watered after planting, they will live and prosper. May is a good time to transplant Magnolias and Tulip trees. Continue to make sowings of hardy annuals and vegetables. As soon as the weather is settled and the ground reasonably warm, make sowings of Corn, Cucumbers, Melons, Squash, Snap Beans and Lima Beans.

When danger of cool nights has passed, set out Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplants and green Dahlia plants. Geraniums, Heliotropes, Lantanas, Coleus, Cannas, Caladiums and Begonias may be planted outdoors late this month or early in June. Make successional plantings of Gladioli, Montbretias and Tuberoses. Don’t cut off the foliage of Spring-flowering bulbs until it has died completely.

If dry weather prevails, Peas, Sweet Peas and many other garden plants will benefit from copious watering. Remember especially regularly to water trees, shrubs and evergreens planted this Spring. Chrysanthemums, Summer Phlox and some other perennials that tend to grow excessively tall and lanky may be induced to bush out if the tips of their growing shoots are pinched out.

Peony flowers will be larger and more perfect if you disbud them by taking off the side buds when they are the size of small peas. Don’t delay the staking and tying of perennials. Toward the end of the month is a good time to sow seeds of perennials and biennials in a coldframe or sheltered seed bed outdoors. After they have bloomed is a good time to propagate by division Creeping Phlox, Arabis, Polyanthus Primroses and many other rock garden plants.

Thin out young plants of vegetables and annuals that are crowding each other, and keep the hoe and cultivator busy stirring the surface soil. Do whatever pruning is needed to Spring-flowering trees and shrubs as soon as they are through flowering. Poinsettias should now be brought out of storage and started into growth. Continue to feed both greenhouse plants and house plants which have filled their containers with healthy roots.

In the South

Fertilize Roses to stimulate new vigorous growth that will bear a second flush of flowers in early Summer. Mow lawns regularly and fertilize them lightly when the grass is dry. Water copiously if long spells of dry weather occur.

Fertilize annuals that seem not to be growing rapidly enough. Cut back Petunias and Sweet Alyssum that are becoming straggly to induce bushiness and fresh crops of flowers. Make successional sowings of hot-weather annuals. Dwarf Dahlias sown outdoors now will make a fine display of bloom later.

In the vegetable plot sow Soy Beans, Okra, Melons, Watermelons, Corn, Snap Beans and Lima Beans, Squash and Field Peas. Sow Tomatoes for late cropping. Stake Tomatoes, Peppers and Eggplants before they become so tall that there is danger of damage by storms. Apply a side dressing of fertilizer to these and to Cucumbers, Corn, Beans and other vegetables in need of extra nutrition.

On the West Coast

Don’t allow Fuchsias or Begonias to suffer from lack of moisture. Specimens that have filled their containers with healthy roots benefit from feeding regularly with dilute liquid fertilizer also try to know how to root lantana. Plants of Tuberous Begonias set out in May bloom freely from mid-July on. Remove old plants of Cinerarias, Primulas and others that made such a brave show earlier and which are kinds that are discarded after flowering. Replace them with such kinds as Tuberous Begonias, Impatiens, lantana and Fuchsias where the location is shaded, with Ageratums, Petunias, Zinnias, Dwarf Dahlias, Snapdragons and the like in sunny locations.

Fertilize Camellias, Rhododendrons and Azaleas after they are through blooming, and mulch the soil beneath them. Make succession plantings of annuals and vegetables. Prune Spring-flowering shrubs that need such attention. Keep plants staked, tied, sprayed and watered.

Gardening usually means extensive efforts and continuous expenses for most people. But you could actually have two herb gardens even with small spaces. The pots are the biggest factor. This technique is called container gardening.

You can have all sorts of containers – varied pots, galvanized steel or tin pails, old cook wares from casseroles to bowls, including the broken ones, old tires and just about any empty container you have.

When you have the containers and the herbs, you can start your petite home herb gardens. But first, you have to thoroughly clean the containers, even if you are using brand new pots. They have to be dirt free so as to not allow early formation of moss, molds and unhelpful bacteria.

Below are two ways you can utilize the container gardening technique.

Indoor Herb Garden

Most annuals are suitable for indoor gardens. Some of these are basil, anise, borage, geranium, chives, and rosemary. These herbs are usually low maintenance. They just need well tilled soil, minimal exposure to the sun and regular watering. Place them near window sills and door openings. However, there are different tolerance with sunlight for different plants. Full sunshine is needed by some plants once in a while, like geraniums. It would be best that you post schedule or a timetable when to put your herbs outside. When growing herbs in pots indoors, it would be best to choose the lightweight ones, so whenever you need to bring them out, you can easily carry them.

Also, there are several ways to minimize space consumption. You can make use of metal or plastic chains to hang your pots on your window railings. You can also have the containers placed on the counter top for it to be accessible to you when you are cooking.

For aromatic herbs, place them in tables where the most traffic in your house goes through. You can have it on your dining table as a great centerpiece. Instead of potpourri, why not use aromatic herbs in your bathroom. You would notice that when your steam goes off, so does the scent of the plants. This is because of the herbs’ essential oils reacting to some heat. Also, place a small pot of any aromatic herb that could help you relax before you go to sleep. The lavender would be a popular choice.

Outdoor Herb Garden

An outdoor garden is usually associated with vast lawns and wide-stretching backyards. It is still possible to have a nice outdoor garden even if your outdoor is as small as your storage room. Outside environments are usually the best for most perennials and evergreens. They will need all the sunlight they can have.

You can use old tires and variedly sized pots to create a tiered outdoor garden. Have the biggest pots placed in the bottom and them pile up to the smallest pots. This will give your herbs a good position. Keep in mind, the big pots don't necessarily need to contain the big plants. You could have the herbs with small root growth in clusters for more thickness. Deep pots are best options for those with sporadic and expansive root growth. Have them placed in the middle of the tier. You can use any pot to contribute to the aesthetics of your outdoors.

With the container technique, having diverse herb gardens is truly possible to work for your comfort and convenience.

You can start your own herb garden by going over to the local greenhouse, nursery or home improvement store to purchase them. You could also start your own herbs from seeds. Those are all good and well, but a third method, called propagation is less costly than purchasing your herbs or starting them from seeds.

Propagation is simply locating a friend or neighbor who already has some plants and then taking either part of their plant through division or by taking a cutting of their herb and allowing it to grow roots for before planting it.

When using division, breaking up isn’t hard to do, you just split the plant into smaller, separate plants. Some plants are easier than others to divide, like chives and thyme. Dig all the way through the herb with your shovel and the roots, which will completely separate the plant into parts. If you are dividing a creeping plant like English chamomile, it will be much simpler.

You don’t have to use a trowel; you can take a couple of regular forks and use them and your hands to separate the plant. One thing you will need to do is water the herb you will be dividing the day before, the soft, moist dirt will be ready for you. Once you get back home with your new plant, treat it just like you would a plant you get at the greenhouse.

One thing that is different is that you’re going to want to fertilize the new little herb when you put it into the ground. I’d also recommend that you use a root stimulator to aid in supporting those tender roots that will need to grow to support the divided herb.

Taking a cutting is even simpler than division because you will not have to dig up anything. Just keep in mind that your cuttings won’t have any roots and can’t be planted in the ground or in a pot until it does, which could take several weeks.. Not all herbs respond well to cuttings, so do your research before you get out your garden shears.

The best herbs for cuttings are the young plants instead of older, more established plants, because they can be woody.  But like I always hear; make do with what’s at hand. When making a cutting, follow these guidelines:

• Find a branch that has at least 3 leaves and then cut it off at the stem and remove the leaves

• Now here is where I am different from other people: they recommend that you only dip the stem into a root stimulator while I recommend that you soak the stem overnight in a diluted mixture of root stimulator and water.

• Either way, once you do that you will want to then stick the stem down into your moistened, rich dirt. You will want to cover up the stem so that no bare part (where you scraped off the leaves) is seen.

• After a few days, add a little more water. This will keep the stem moist. But you do not want to drench it. Be sure to give your cutting four weeks to start growing its new leaves.

Some of my favorite herbs to start from cuttings include: rosemary, salvias, scented geranium, vervain and white willow.

Good luck with your herb gardening. Be sure to let me know how your herb garden grows.

Here is more Herb Garden Information.  Here is a website with a free mini-course dedicated to Herb Gardens. 

Most plants that were potted and brought inside last month (November) will need some attention now. Do not disturb the inactive ones as they are probably in a much-needed resting stage. The active ones, though, should have the soil loosened on the surface, should be fed, and encouraged to grow. The succulent types, such as coleus and geraniums, have probably made an appreciable amount of growth. More cuttings should be made from these to secure more plants for putting out in spring.

There is still time to plant a few more bulbs for forcing. These will be late in bloom, but they will add much to a collection of house plants in late spring. Outdoor plantings of bulbs can still be made. Many dealers are closing out their stock of bulbs at bargain prices. These will flower late but usually will produce quality blooms.

Do not overwater the house plants, as there is danger of decay forming in the stems. Be certain, when using plant food, to follow directions carefully. Remember that most plant foods are toxic to pot plants – except in small, and very small, doses. Be alert for insects on house plants, especially scale insects on the foliage plants.

Lawns can be seriously damaged during winter months by excessive traffic. During this time of no growth, the foliage removed by walking on grass cannot be replaced until spring. This loss results in a weakened plant, and a resulting slow start by the lawn. So it is wise to discourage walking on dormant lawns, more so than on growing lawns.

Birds will frequent the garden that has a source of water for them at all times. Use a container of something besides noisy metal for putting out water. Check the container frequently to keep it full and free from ice. The birds appreciate an occasional “hand out” of food, also.

Mulches on the shrub beds should be applied as soon as freezing temperatures begin. Strawy manure is one of the best if it is available. Prairie hay, cotton burs. or any material available that will absorb and hold moisture and decompose into the soil will make a good mulch for winter. Remember, a mulch of ground or screened manure will be very beneficial to the pansies.

Check the potted bulbs for root development and bring the first pots in about the middle of the month for bloom for Christmas. It is time to start the amaryllis for early bloom.

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Ideal plants for those value fragrance rather than color, are the scented-leaved geraniums.

These offer a combination of pleasant perfumes and a wide variety of foliage form and texture. Since they are plants that are comparatively easy of culture, maintaining a collection is relatively simple.

Scented geraniums can be grown as house plants, in a greenhouse or as garden subjects left out all year in the more temperate south and southwestern parts of the country. They demand only ordinary care. Give them good garden loam, sunshine, moderate water, a reasonable amount of feeding, as well as occasional pinching, and they will thrive happily.

The scented varieties never become dormant. During dark, winter days, to be sure, they do not grow as fast as in spring and summer, but they always remain in full leaf, their hidden fragrance awaiting the slightest touch. As house plants, they are excellent, where they succeed in any sunny window. They are also not excessively sensitive to house conditions, such as dry atmosphere, high temperatures and the occasional presence of minute amounts of gas.

When to Water

Water these geraniums only when the soil begins to dry, but then do it thoroughly. One way to determine the moisture of the soil is to feel it with the fingers. Another is to tap the pot lightly with a stick. The quality and pitch of the tapping sound indicates the degree of saturation. A dull, heavy sound means the soil is moist, while a sharp, ringing sound that it is dry. Some growers, after a little practice, can determine the amount of moisture by the weight of the pot. Always, however, take care to avoid the easy method of watering plants by a set schedule. The condition of the plants themselves should be the only guide for watering.

Pinching plants is necessary to induce branching. The blind -grower finds out when to do this by feeling their shape. Only the growing tips should he removed gently with the fingers. Since the scented varieties are naturally more bushy than the zonals, they require less pinching.

Repotting plants like the butterfly bush is needed only a couple of times a year. When the pot becomes full of roots, move to a larger container. At any time, the root ball can be gently removed from the pot and the roots felt with the fingers to determine if repotting is necessary. The “scenteds” will be healthier, however, if kept slightly pot bound to maintain firm, woody growth. Plants grown from cuttings taken in late summer are satisfactory for house plants and do not require so much room as older, larger specimens.

Fertilizing is scarcely a problem. Newly-potted cuttings do not need feeding for several months. After that give a light sprinkling of ammonium sulphate or a balanced chemical fertilizer. The root ball should be moist before feeding to avoid burning the tender roots. Fertilizing during the period of slow growth is not advisable.

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I recall when I planned my first herb garden. It was in the corner of the back yard under a Bradford Pear tree. Once I made up my mind to do a square-shaped bed I used red bricks to edge the bed and to divide it into 4 square sections. Each section was used for a different kind of herb.

In one section I planted an Italian herb garden that included oregano, basil and parsley. In another area I grew my first tea garden, full of peppermint, anise, chamomile and fennel. Another section had healing herb plants, such as aloe vera, horseradish and calendula. The last [section|quarter] had cosmetic [herb plants|herbs] like for lavender, chervil and lemon verbena that I used in soaps, lotions and shampoos.

It was a fabulous success that first year and I enjoyed the experience, but in the second year, my mints took over and my chamomile crept away while my lavender died a painfully tragic sunlight-related death.

It did not work, because I hadn’t looked at the most important thing: what my herbs need in earth, light and water to thrive and grow successfully.

While there are enough varieties of herb plants to grow outside to fill a hundred gardens, including dill, rosemary, salvias, scented geranium and vervain before you begin your herb garden check out the optimal growing conditions that your herbs will need. Each [plant|herb] [require|need]s optimal conditions to [thrive|persist|grow|survive] and prosper. Try [herb plants|herbs] like white willow, thyme, sage, poppies and lemon balm.

Plant these herbs for instant success:

• Basil: If you plant basil, you will be on easy street because basil will not need much help from you. Basil requires full or part-sun and can grow in a bed or container, as long as it has good drainage, which reminds me to mention that you will only need to water it when the soil is dry. If you are going to be cooking with your basil, be sure to use the sweet basil type of the herb for best results.

• Lemongrass: You cannot beat the aroma of lemongrass. It’s one of the happy little grasses that can get pretty tall in a single growing season, adding a spot of bright green color your garden and a delicious lemon scent. Although you can begin with seeds, I buy mine from the local greenhouse, probably because I cannot wait to add that fresh lemongrass to my Thai and Indian dinners.

• Cilantro: I must confess that cilantro is my new favorite herb to grow in my garden and use in my cooking. Its distinctive taste makes it an awesome addition to your Tex-Mex dinners and it is simple to grow.

• Chamomile: To add some extra sparkle to your hanging baskets, try the German kind of this chamomile. Snip off a few of the leaves to use in your calming tea or even your bath for some added luxury. Chamomile is considered to be a sensual plant because it has a light and woody apple scent that can heighten your senses. It can also make you smile because it looks like a daisy with white petals and a yellow center.

So test the waters, have fun, go dig in the dirt and get your hands dirty …there are a lot of ways to herb garden outside and none of them is the only way to do it—there is no right way, there is only your way.

Good luck with your herb gardening outside. Be sure to let me know how your herb garden grows.

Here is more information on Herb Garden Designs. Here is a website with a free mini-course dedicated to Herb Gardens.

Now you don’t have to be a purist and just use one herb in one pot like some people. I love to mix things up a bit and put several herbs in the same pot. It looks nicer and brings more texture to my garden.

To try this, you should choose herb plants that have similar sod and watering needs and then purchase those that will look good together or have similar purposes—like putting all your cooking herbs together.

These are a few herb plants that I have found that will grow well in pots:

• Sage: With nearly 750 kinds, hopefully you find at least one sage plant for your herb garden that you’ll like, because sage comes in a number of colors and sizes. Sage does well from seeds, which can give you a head start on the growing season if you start early indoors. It prefers well-drained sod and lots of direct sunshine. This is one of those that I plant for the foliage, so I clip off the flowers as soon as they bud to help the herb concentrate on the foliage, which I then cut off at the stem whenever I’m cooking.

• Scented geraniums: Just like sage, there are a lot of varieties of scented geraniums to choose from. I hope you enjoy scented geraniums as much as I do. Although they look very like floral (non-herbal) variety, these also grow well in containers that you can pick up at any nursery, home improvement or discount store. Put your plants in a pot that has good drainage and put it in a location that will give your scented geranium a lot of sunlight. You can harvest the stems and leaves for cakes and teas. You can even harvest the blooms for use in floral pressings.

• Cardamom: Cardamom is a good herb for you if bad breath is an issue for you. This large houseplant-like plant will get big in the summer and will need to be brought inside during winter to thrive, so use a big container. Not only will the seeds add a taste of India to your rice and chicken dishes, you can also add it to soups and stews. There are many other ways to use for cardamom, including easing issues with flatulence (if you have them).

• Lemon verbena: This is one of those essential herb plants to have in your garden because you can utilize it in so many ways. Do not worry about seeds. Go out and pick up a young herb and get it started in a wide container that will support the herb’s height. This plant likes full sun and well-drained sod. Check out your leaves for signs of drought because the foliage is the best part of the plant.

Some other herbs that I’d recommend for you to start with in your pot combinations are: thyme, mints, lavender, goldenrod, fennel and carrot.

Good luck with your plant gardening. Be sure to let me know how your plant garden grows.

Here is more information on Growing Herbs in Pots. Here is a website with a free mini-course dedicated to Herb Gardens.

Home gardeners find that rooting scented-leaved geraniums is not always easy. Often they have a favorite plant they want to propagate and after several attempts meet with failure. Among the many kinds, some root very easily, while others are very tricky.

Of the popular scented-leaved geraniums, the lemon-scented and the rose-scented varieties root easily and quickly under common propagating methods.

The lemon-scented (Pelargonium crispum) is a small stemmed plant, with tiny crinkled leaves, which requires considerably more water than most geraniums. Take cuttings about 3-3/4 inches long and trim off all leaves from the bottom up to 1-1/4 inches. Make a clean cut beneath an eye, dip the end into 3X rooting powder and insert the cuttings in clean sand, deep enough so that the lower leaves do not touch the sand. Shade until signs of growth are evident. Then remove shade and keep plants a little drier.

Oak-leaved varieties (Pelargonium quercifolium) are not too difficult. Take tender cuttings, but if they are hardened, root them under drier conditions. A 1X rooting powder is best. Practically all hardy and easy-to-root as well are the flowering scented varieties, none of which demand anything beyond normal cultural conditions. Here again water well, and allow the sand to become rather dry, but not arid, before watering again.

Spice-scented and fruit-scented varieties vary considerably in their needs, but here is how some of the more familiar kinds should be handled.

Use Rooting Powder

Cuttings from the nutmeg geranium (Pelargonium fragrans) and its varieties are made from the heaviest wood available and dipped in a No. 1 or No. 2 rooting powder. These are dependable rooters, but it is best to leave them in the sand for three or four months until the tuberous-type roots have formed.

Apple-scented geraniums (Pelargonium odoratissimum) are propagated from the very short joints which radiate from the main stem and then potted directly into 2-1/2″ pots filled with good soil. They will invariably lose all their leaves, but will fill out with new growth. So it is a must to know why there are brown tips on plants.

Ginger-scented, lemon-balm and almond-scented are all very easy to root under ordinary conditions.

Gooseberry-leaved geranium (Pelargonium grossularioides) is another very small-wooded variety which should he well shaded and given a little more than the usual amount of water, especially after the first week or two in sand.

Mint-scented varieties (Pelargonium tomentosam) including Peppermint, Pungent Peppermint and Joy Lucile require only the usual practices given cuttings.

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