How Can Gray Water Help Your Garden?

Anyone who has ever tried to keep a garden alive during a drought… or experienced the shock of high public water bills during a hot dry summer, needs to know about gray water.

Gray water is not actually gray in color. Instead, this is a term which refers to water which is able to be recycled for use in your lawn and garden. A lot of water used in a standard American home can be reused to water the grass, trees, and flowers in your yard. It’s perfectly safe if done properly, and it makes an amazing difference in the health of your yard and garden - as well as your bank balance.

Now there are different ordinances and laws for gray water usage across the country, so you’ll need to consult with your local city before starting to use gray water in your own gardens. It’s also considered best to avoid using it in vegetable and food gardens.

For flowers, trees, grass, and other non-edible lawn and garden areas though, using gray water can mean the difference between a healthy garden or a dead one.

In most cases, gray water comes from the bath and shower of your home. Some places also allow washing machine and dishwasher run off to be used as gray water too. If you use any of these sources to water your lawn and garden though, it is safest to choose soaps and other cleansers which are non-toxic and not harmful to the environment.

When a house is set up to use gray water for the yard and garden, it is simply rerouting used water to those areas instead of letting it go down the drain into the sewage system. After taking a bath for instance, when the tub is drained of water, that water may go out a hose which leads to the garden area. Alternatively, the pipes which connect the bathtub to the sewage system may simply be rerouted to the garden areas instead.

The same type of set up is done for showers too, and washing machines or dishwashers. Water from your toilet is not used for watering the lawn or garden areas though, because this is considered hazardous waste material. Human waste materials from the toilet can create diseases and other major health hazards.

It is these health hazards which also cause some communities to be very strict about gray water too. Many areas for instance, will not allow water from the dishwasher to be run into the yard and garden area because there could be hazardous germs and contamination risks.

In some communities, gray water is only allowed to be used with certain other conditions and restrictions too. You may be required for instance, to make sure your gray water run off is a minimimum distance away from your neighbor’s yard.

For the best results in your garden, when you use gray water be sure that it has cooled to a more moderate, luke warm temperature before it is drained into your garden. Sending very hot water to your plants and flowers can shock and kill them. This is easiest to accomplish by washing your clothes with warm water instead of hot, and allow your bath water to cool before draining it.

Technorati tags: water gray garden which used areas

To the average consumer, plant propagation might simply mean growing a new plant from a seed. Experienced gardeners and farmers, however, know that they are numerous ways to propagate, both sexual and asexual. The asexual methods usually create an exact genetic duplicate, or clone of the parent plant. This is usually highly desirable when a gardener finds a plant with superior genetic traits. Plant cloning is almost as old as agriculture itself, and some species of trees originated as plants that were cloned on a mass scale. For example, all Bartlett pear trees have their ancestors in a tree that was first cloned in 1770. Here are the most common methods gardeners use for cloning plants.

Layering - Layering is a method of cloning plants where roots are encouraged to actually form on the stem before it is removed from the parent plant. Some plants actually use this technique to propagate themselves in nature. In simple layering, the gardener simply bends a low growing stem into the medium, keeping it in place with a stake if necessary. The stem should form roots and start growing as a new plant. In serpentine layering, a very long stem is buried into the medium at intervals. The buried sections will form roots and create several new plants.

Grafting - Grafting is a method of plant cloning where one plant fuses with another plant. In agriculture, it is usually done with trees. In this technique, the bottom section with the plant roots is referred to as the stock, and the plant that is used for the stems and leaves is called the scion. Many farmers do this when they want to increase the odds of a plant’s survival by grafting its top section to another plant with stronger roots. It is also sometimes done to save a tree that may have suffered a damaged trunk or roots.

Cutting - Cutting is the most commonly used technique for cloning plants in hydroponics. The gardener simply cuts off a part of the plant, usually a stem or leaf, and plants it into the growing medium. Since this technique requires one to actually detach a part of the plant from the root, and therefore cut off its primary source of moisture, it is imperative to keep a well humidified grow room while cloning plants through cutting. Many gardeners even choose to operate “mist sprays” on their planted cut stems during the one or two weeks that it takes for them to form roots.

Micropropagation - Micropropigation is a very new, very advanced, and very expensive form of plant cloning. In this technique, lab technicians actually make clones of plants using the actual plant tissue. Since this has to be performed in a sterile laboratory environment, and is therefore very costly, it is only performed on plants that are very difficult to propagate asexually. Many believe that Micropropagation may be a way to the future of propagation, as it may have ability to create disease-free plants, as well as plants with other desirable traits, such as those that bigger yields or tastier vegetables.

Michael Straumietis is co-founder of Advanced Nutrients. If you need expert advice on cloning plants, visit the website at http://www.advancednutrients.com and learn tips and tricks on hydroponics.

One of the best things you can do to ensure your success in hydroponics is to subscribe to a hydroponics newsletter. The world of hydroponic growing is ever changing and the best way to keep up to date on the ways to increase your yield and improve the size of your buds and flavor of your vegetables is to get a periodical in your inbox every month.

The best tool a gardener can have is information and a good newsletter can give you tons of useful tips for a few dollars or even free. But the information you receive can sometimes be overwhelming, so it can sometimes be confusing as to what will be the best way to apply your newfound knowledge.

Ensure Your Newsletter is from a Reputable Source - You may be surprised to hear that not every hydroponic newsletter comes from an experienced grower who has countless growing seasons under their belt. In fact, the large majority of these newsletters come from low-end growers who think that successfully growing a couple tomato plants in their hall closet makes them an expert.

Make certain that your newsletter comes from a company, organization, or person who has real world experience growing hydroponically and does not necessarily just rehash advice that they may have heard elsewhere.

Test a Small Area First - When you read of some new breakthrough that promises to vastly increase your yield, it can sometimes be tempting to apply it to your entire crop immediately. But when it comes to the safety of your plants, you do not want to take any chances. Try the new advice on a single plant first, so you can be sure the information will actually be beneficial. Changing some factors can sometimes be easier than others, especially when you have large, interconnected systems. This is why it might be a good idea to grow one or two “test plants” in a smaller hydroponic system separate from your main system that allow you to experiment to your heart’s content.

Make Sure the Advice Pertains to Your Particular Conditions - There’s nothing worse than reading in a hydroponic newsletter that your plants might actually benefit from a slight drop of the pH level in the nutrient solution, but only discovering later that will only help you if you are using rockwool as a medium, while you choose to use coco coir. There are so many factors and variables that go into successful hydroponic growing that a piece of a advice that might help one grower might actually harm another grower’s plants. So before you rush off and make those adjustments, make certain that the any new research you are reading about applies to your particular hydroponic system, lighting system, medium and plants.

Find a Newsletter that Helps Growing on Your Scale - Some hydroponic newsletters specialize in a certain scale of growing. So some might contain mostly advice to the hobby grower who likes growing vegetables in their basement, while others are targeted towards large, for-profit greenhouses. Make sure the information can really help your conditions and will work within your budget.

Michael Straumietis is co-founder of Advanced Nutrients, an international marketer and manufacturer of agricultural, home & garden, hydroponics and soil less fertilizers and plant nutrients. To find out how you can start your own hydroponics newsletter, visit the gardening section at http://www.advancednutrients.com.

When choosing seed plant propagation, every gardener wants to create optimal conditions for their plants to get off to a good start. There is a lot that goes into germination, and if even one factor is missing, it can have profound effects on your entire crop. Here are the factors that most greatly influence how well your seeds will germinate.

Water - Soaking up water is the first step in germination and therefore successful seed plant propagation, so it should be at the forefront of the mind of any hydroponic gardener. The factors that influence water uptake are the amount of water available in the medium and the thickness and density of the seed covering. You can increase water uptake by making sure that you choose a medium that holds water well. Rockwool, for example, is a very popular choice for exactly this reason. You can also treat your seeds in a number of ways to weaken the shell. These techniques can be as simple as using sandpaper to make the shell thinner to as advanced and complex as soaking the seeds in acid until the shells are worn off.

Temperature - A favorable temperature is also essential for germination. This can be tricky, as optimal temperature can change from plant to plant; the best temperatures for germination are usually a little higher than the best temperatures for seedlings. Optimal germination temperatures can range as low as seventy or seventy-five degrees F for plants such as lettuce, celery, spinach and asparagus. Those that thrive in the middle of the range, about eighty to eighty five degrees, include cabbage, tomatoes, turnips, beans and peppers. On the high end, with plants that do will in temperatures of up to ninety five degrees, you will find squash, watermelon and pumpkin.

You must be cautious about it getting too hot in your grow room. Temperatures of over one hundred degrees have shown to kill seeds in less than a day. Even instances where seeds can survive in such high temperatures, it may suck the moisture away from the medium, making it more difficult for your seeds to germinate. This is why purchasing a couple auxiliary fans attached to a thermostat is a smart investment if you happen to live a particularly warm part of the world.

Oxygen - The rate of respiration increases in the seed dramatically during germination. This means that there is an increased need for oxygen. You may try to keep your grow area well ventilated to prevent it from becoming too stuffy, and use fans to circulate the air.

Light - Light is vital at all stages of plant development, and germination is no exception. Make certain that your seeds are not planted so deep within your medium that they do not receive adequate light. At this early stage and through the seedling stage, it is possible to use a completely white light source, such as florescent or white LED lights. Past that, however, you will need to switch to colored LED lights or high intensity discharge (HID) lights.

Michael Straumietis is co-founder of Advanced Nutrients, an international marketer and manufacturer of agricultural, home & garden, hydroponics and soil less fertilizers and plant nutrients. To discover more about plant propagation, search the article database in the hydroponics gardening section at http://www.advancednutrients.com.

In hydroponics, plant cloning is the act of reproducing a plant asexually so that it is a genetic copy of the original. Many people choose to clone because it can actually create a new plant faster than seed propagation. Others choose to clone in order to make copies of genetically superior plants. It is not uncommon for an experienced hydroponic gardener to have his grow room be mostly filled with clones of a single original plant.

In hydroponics, the most common method of plant cloning is making a cutting. This simply involves cutting off a part of the “parent plant” and planting it in the medium. Since each cell in a plant has the ability to grow every part necessary for the plant’s survival, this will create an entirely new plant if done properly.

The plant you use to make your clone or clones must be chosen carefully. During a growing season, make sure to pay careful attention to which plants seem to be the hardiest, were most resistant to the diseases, and provided the biggest yields. In vegetables, try to note which offered the best tasting food. In flowers, look at which offered the biggest, most colorful and most fragrant buds. Make certain that the mother plant is healthy and well fed. Making a cutting creates an open wound which increases the odds of the plant suffering from a bacterial or viral disease.

You may have to alter your growing room conditions when plant cloning. Cuttings often require more humidity and higher temperatures in order to successfully take root. Make sure that the light you use is neither too harsh or too hot. It will probably benefit from either indirect, reflected light and cool running light source, such as LED or fluorescent bulbs.

To make the cut, take a sharp razor blade and sterilize it with isopropyl alcohol. Cut a section of the stem that is about two to five inches long. The stem should have a few large leaves on it to maximize photosynthesis.

However, you should remove any leaves that may wind up below the growing medium. These will simply die because they will not receive any light, and create unwanted organic material that might attract bugs and diseases.

To maximize the potential of success of the plant cloning, you should use a rooting hormone. Rooting hormones are designed to increase the percentage of cuttings which form roots, speed up how quickly roots form and increase the number of roots on every cutting. To use this, simply pour the hormone into a shot glass or other container and dip the end of the cutting into it.

Now you should poke an area in your medium to allow easy insertion of the cutting and gently place it in the medium. Some growers cover their grow tray or buckets with a clear plastic bag to increase humidity. The bag should be removed after about two weeks, when the roots should start taking hold.

During the cloning stage, growers should pay extra attention to any fungi that might form in their growing room. The increased need for humidity creates a perfect environment for many species of undesirable fungi to thrive.

Michael Straumietis is co-founder of Advanced Nutrients, an international marketer and manufacturer of agricultural, home & garden, hydroponics and soil less fertilizers and plant nutrients. To discover more about plant cloning, read our feature article in the hydroponics gardening section at http://www.advancednutrients.com.

Want to double the value you get from a key part of your home? Installing lighting in your garden will change it from a daytime only venue into a place to enjoy day and night throughout the year. Why invest in a garden makeover if you can only enjoy it for half the time?

Many people hardly see their gardens in the Winter. Its dark when you leave for work, and dark when you return, so apart from peering out of the window at the weekends the garden might as well not be there. But with some strategically positioned lights you can turn your garden into a magical place that draws your eye beyond the indoors and enhances your living space.

It’s important to explain to your electrician that the aim of lighting your garden is to highlight interesting shapes, textures and perspectives. It is to create atmosphere and drama, maybe sparkle from a water feature and on a practical note it can illuminate steps and pathways, entrances and exits. It will create a view from indoors and turns outdoor entertaining into a special occasion every time.

Just like interior lighting, exterior lighting can range from soft washes of colour against a wall to up-lighting interesting plants with lights concealed in shrubs or behind plants. But there are other ideas to explore too - lights on dimmers to create different moods, lights beneath the water in ponds, or focused to catch the shimmer of a fountain. Flexible lights can be moved as plants grow or different flowers in a border blossom, so you’re always showing off your garden’s best features.

When planning the lighting of a garden bear in mind that there is no ceiling, so you are restricted to lights “planted” within the shrubbery and hanging off the walls, with maybe the odd light placed in a tall tree, if you have one. But then general lighting, which you would achieve inside from a ceiling light is not what you’re after in a garden - you will create a much more attractive scheme by having subtle pools of light. Don’t forget you will also benefit from some “overspill” lighting from inside the house.

In small gardens, soft focus lighting can very effectively provide visual signposts that highlight the furthest points in the garden. An architectural plant or a statue are good features to light up and draw the eye away from the immediate area, creating an illusion of space. The key is to get your electrician to conceal the light fitting so that only the effect is seen and not the hardware.

If your garden is relatively newly planted it’s worth bearing in mind how the garden will develop. Plants will get bigger and trees taller and wider so it may be worth considering low voltage lights mounted on a spike, that can be easily moved around rather than more permanently placed high voltage mains lights that need to be hardwired. Often mains lights need to be installed before planting, but it will be difficult for an electrician to know where the plants will be placed and how they will grow. You could get your electrician and gardener to work out the design together but it’s probably best to plant first and light up later.

Outdoor lighting schemes can cost more than interior lighting but this is because special work needs to be done. For instance some excavation work will be required and the wiring to the light fittings will need to be protected to ensure it is properly sealed. Also it will need to be buried deep enough so it isn’t disturbed when beds are dug over or new plants and bulbs are planted. All the connections will need to be waterproof protected and breakers have to be fitted so that the power is cut off if water seeps into the system. For all these reasons it’s important to get a qualified electrician to do the work.

If your garden is already established, then get the wiring work done in Autumn or Spring, to minimise any damage to plants.

Lighting up your garden will make it a really exciting feature of your home - with the help of an electrician and a little design inspiration, you can really add some sparkle to your outdoors.

Expert gardener India Cooper reveals how with the help of an electrician to strategically position lights one can turn the garden into a magical place. To find out more please visit http://www.ratedpeople.com/find/electrician

Most hedge plants bought in the UK each year are bare-rooted. These have many advantages over those grown in pots, but all their size, strength and low cost cannot overcome two huge shortcomings.

Not all hedging stock can be successfully planted when bare-rooted, irrespective of the time of year. Secondly, if you want to plant in the summer months (April - September) you have no choice but to use container grown hedges.

So, if the planners are on your back in May, if a car mows down your treasured yew hedge while on its way to (or more likely from) Glastonbury in June or if you suddenly fall out with a neighbour in July and want to blot them out, you turn to potted hedge plants. They cost more, but they fill a gap in more ways than one.

You should be able to find most of the likely suspects in containers from a specialist supplier. Garden centres have many uses (I am going to spend several hundred pounds in one tomorrow) but selling relatively large numbers of the same plant is not one of them. You do not need variety (which is what a good garden centre should provide), instead you need consistent size and quality and you want to buy plants or container grown hedges that have been grown specifically to develop into bushy hedges.

The list of plants you may want to consider would include - in alphabetical order - beech, box, escallonia, griselinia, holly, hornbeam, laurel, photinia, privet, viburnum and yew. All of these are either evergreen or hold their leaves through the winter. All grow extremely well in containers, unlike many of the more normal bare-root subjects which hate having their roots constrained. All enjoy being planted in the relatively warm soils of June - September and they all establish well from potted hedging.

Ground preparation wants to be pretty good - no plant likes to be stuffed into a small hole without food and water. Work in a trench about 40 cms wide and 30 cms deep. Dig it over thoroughly to ensure competing weed and tree roots are removed, hard clods are broken up and larger stones are removed. Remove the soil, fork over the bottom of the trench to help with drainage and then return the topsoil together with plenty of well-rotted compost to improve its water retention qualities.

The key to successful summer planting lies in good preparation. The roots of container grown hedges need to be encouraged to grow out from the rich compost in the pot into the surrounding soil. Nothing does this better than ensuring it is moist but well drained.

Remember - if the ground is not ready when your plants arrive, there is no hurry - containerised stock is perfectly happy to sit and wait for a couple of weeks while the weather gets better and you finish preparing their trench. One of the joys of container planting is that you can choose to do it when the weather suits!

There is really not much else to do. Summer planting tends to mean that rabbits stay away and there are loads of birds around to keep insect pests at bay. Weeds need to be kept under control, it is true, but if you have grass to cut just tip the clippings along the base of your hedge. They will smother smaller weeds and rot down quite quickly to improve the soil.

They also help make sure the ground stays damp. If it dries out, leaky hose is very water efficient, but if you have a hosepipe ban, then use soap rather than detergent in your bath, run the bath outlet into a barrel outside the house and water your hedge from that. Use some on the roses as well, greenfly hate the soap.

Anna Stenning is an expert on container grown hedges, having spent some time in the summer growing her own hedging.

Experienced gardeners often wax philosophical about rose pruning and maintenance; leaving prospective gardeners to wonder if they could ever master such a complicated system. But let me let you in on a little secret — caring for your roses isn’t that difficult! There are a few things to keep in mind, but rose care is something that even mere gardening mortals can master. Read on for a few tips on keeping your rose bushes in top shape throughout the year.

Pruning

Almost all roses should be pruned in early spring. To help you remember this, just repeat to yourself, “When the forsythia blooms, it’s time to prune!” Using sharp pruning shears, cut about a quarter of an inch above an outward facing bud. Be sure to cut down and way from the bud at a 45 degree angle. If you cut too far above the bud, the remaining dead tissue could develop disease. But if you cut too close, there might not be enough stem left to support the bud.

The goal of pruning is to remove dead wood and give the plant a good foundation of growth for the upcoming season. If you have a healthy, established plant, you’ll want to choose three or four of the strongest looking canes that will form the frame of your bush. Choose healthy looking canes that are spaced well and prune them back to about 6″ in height. If you’re working with a new plant — or one that’s been neglected — cut back to 12″ in height.

While you’re pruning the plant, remove any suckers that have grown up from the root stock and clean up any dead or diseased leaves that have fallen around the plant base. One of the most common rose diseases is black spot disease — a malady that will cause rose leaves to become spotted, die and fall off the plant. These decomposing leaves can be a breeding ground for the disease, so be sure to clean them up to prevent them from infecting your plant in the future.

Feeding

Roses need extra fertilization to grow big and strong. That’s why it’s so important to have your soil tested by a county extension agency or farm supply/feed store before you plant your roses. If your soil has any kind of nutrient deficiencies, you’ll want to address with fertilizers and soil additives before starting your garden. In particular, look for rose-specific fertilizers that are high in phosphorus and products that add rich organic matter to the soil.

Overwintering

In most areas, your roses will be fine over winter with a little mulch or straw around the base to keep the plant and its roots protected. However, if you live in a colder climate — typically Zone 6 on the USDA Plant Hardiness Chart or below — you’ll need to take a few extra precautions. To protect your plant from harsh weather, construct a shelter out of garden stakes and burlap fabric then stuff the tent full of straw. You can also use pine boughs or other similar material to construct the tent.

Rose care and maintenance doesn’t have to be that complicated — despite what so called “experts” want you to believe. If these steps sound complicated, don’t worry — as time goes by and you learn more about your roses, you’ll become more comfortable caring for them. With a few simple steps and adequate precautions, you’ll be well on your way to building a strong, thriving rose garden.

Warren writes for a lawn care tips website as well as a website that helps home owners with yard work.

Orchids are beautiful and delicate. They seem almost to be the anti flower with their geometric shapes the antithesis of the soft, rounded curves of more common flowers. It is this very unusual quality that makes them so exotic and desirable. Orchids have had a long history and have different meanings.

Whatever meaning you choose to take from these beautiful flowers there can be no gift more unusual, unexpected or beautiful than a carefully made up bouquet of these flowers. The orchids add another dimension to such a gift. Telling your loved ones about the special history behind these flowers can only enhance them.

Fertility

In ancient Greece it was believed that orchids were a symbol of fertility and virility. It was even believed that consuming the flower could determine the sex of an unborn child. If the father of an unborn child ate large, new orchid tubers then the woman would have a boy.

On the other hand if the mother ate small orchid tubers she would have a girl. If you are trying to have a baby this could be a meaningful gift to your spouse. Or this could be a pretty and meaningful gift for someone who is expecting a baby.

Luxury

In Victorian England orchids took on the mantle of luxury. No doubt this image stems from the fact that these flowers are hard to find anywhere but tropical places. Anyone during this era who could afford to buy these exotic blooms would have to be a rich person. Orchids still have a connotation of luxury as they are still hard to find and exotic.

Perfection and Beauty

The shape of orchids has been mentioned as geometric in comparison to the curvier forms of other flowers. The straight lines that run through these flowers have led them to be a symbol of perfection and beauty. This has to do with the notion that beauty can be found in symmetry. The varied colors of these flowers will give you many choices in terms of which beautiful bloom you wish to use or present someone with.

The spots on orchids are also sometimes used to represent the blood of Christ. This symbolism would make these flowers a wonderful choice for an Easter brunch table. They would also make wonderful altar decorations on special services and occasions. Although these meanings may not be well known, everyone will be able to admire the effect of having these flowers around the altar and church.

For a comprehensive guide to orchids visit Orchid World at http://www.OrchidInfoOnline.com

One of the many advantages of growing your own vegetables hydroponically is that your vegetables often taste better. The produce you get from the supermarket is often very bland for a number of reasons.

First, most farmers do not grow for taste, they grow for yield. They get paid just as much for a bland tomato as a delicious one so they would rather have a large, mediocre crop than a smaller, delicious tasting one. Also, the vegetables that you pick up at the market are usually picked long before they are ripe to allow more time for transport. Allowing a vegetable to ripen on the vine transfers more sugars from the plant to the vegetable itself, resulting in superior taste.

But even with these numerous advantages, many growers want to take steps to ensure that their crop will taste the very best once it comes time to eat it or cook with it in their kitchen. With a few simple adjustments, you can make sure you will enjoy all the flavor benefits of hydroponics growing.

Let their Be Light - The number one growing factor that will influence the flavor of your vegetables while hydroponic gardening will be light. Studies show that longer periods of light, about sixteen hours of light a day, promote the best flavor.

Keep an Eye on the Thermostat - Most vegetables can thrive in fairly warm environment, but do not make the mistake of thinking that it can’t get too hot in your grow room. Tomatoes, for example, if temperatures exceed eighty-two degrees, you will probably notice a decrease in yield as well as flavor. If your grow room is prone to getting too warm, invest in a couple of auxiliary fans to keep your plants at optimal temperatures.

Increase Nutrient Concentration - It might actually do your vegetables good to increase the nutrient concentration of your solution to a bit higher than what is typically recommended. A recent study on the connection between tomato flavor and nutrient concentration in a nutrient film technique system performed at the Massey University at New Zealand, found that changing the conductivity from 2 to 4 resulted in superior flavor. Other studies have also found improvements in flavor using a concentration as high as 10. You may want to experiment, increasing the nutrient concentration on a single plant first, so you can be more certain how such an adjustment will affect your crop.

Handle with Care - How your vegetables will taste isn’t just influenced by how you grow them, it can also be influenced by how you pick and store them. Make sure not to bruise your plants when it comes to be harvest time. Also, try not to refrigerate your vegetables if possible. Refrigeration destroys much of the flavor, even if it is done for a short period of time. For the best flavor, store them in your fruit bowl and eat them shortly after harvesting.

As always, if you notice that one of your plants is producing particularly excellent vegetables, take advantage of it by cloning it. To make this task easier, make sure to invest in some quality cloning gel and follow the instructions carefully.

Michael Straumietis is co-founder of Advanced Nutrients, an international marketer and manufacturer of agricultural, home & garden, hydroponics and soil less fertilizers and plant nutrients. To discover more about hydroponic gardening, read our feature article in the hydroponics gardening section at http://www.advancednutrients.com.